Around Perth: Fremantle

The Round House, Fremantle, WA. Photo credit: Copyright Tourism Western Australia

Around Perth: Fremantle

When European settlers first came to Fremantle they came for whaling and fishing. Convicts increased the population, and built many of its longest-standing buildings.

Today Freo is a buzzing mix of history, arts, culture and cafes that’s easy to explore – and easy to enjoy.

Where the Swan River meets the Indian Ocean sits Fremantle. It’s around 23km south-west of Perth, and if the historic buildings look particularly well kept, thank the yacht Australia II. When it won the Americas Cup, Fremantle became host for the next event in 1987. As a result, the heritage buildings received a welcome restoration which has proved the backbone of a thriving tourist industry ever since.

Fremantle’s a welcoming place. There’s plenty of budget-priced backpacker accommodation as an alternative to the plusher hotels. It’s easy to get around too, thanks to the free CAT buses, and the self-guided trails for walkers and cyclists.

Things to do in Fremantle

Fremantle Prison
Although it was built as a barracks, it didn’t stay that way for long. By 1867 this was a prison, built by the convicts, with solitary cells, gallows and an unnerving network of tunnels.

It’s the most intact convict gaol in Australia and has remained much as it was when it was built. You can explore the tunnels on foot or by boat, and there are spooky torch lit tours that crank up the shiver levels. For those who are really enthusiastic YHA Australia plan to create a 200 bed hostel in the prison, but you’ll have to wait until 2015 for that!

If you want to know more about convict life, take the Convict Walking Trail past Pensioner’s Barracks and Essex Street, once Fremantle’s toughest area.

Western Australia Maritime Museum
The museum sits on Victoria Quay, looking for all the world as if it’s just pulled alongside the waterfront after a long voyage. Outside, the walls are engraved with the names of people who migrated to Australia through the port of Fremantle. Inside things are just as stirring with six themed galleries that explore the maritime history of the state.

Our favourite exhibit is the reconstructed stern of the Batavia, sunk in 1629 and pieced together from recovered timbers.

The Fremantle Arts Centre
Built by convicts as a lunatic asylum, this Gothic limestone building now plays host to a rolling programme of exhibitions and events, as well as displays on the history of Fremantle. It is set in a garden, with a café and shop selling artefacts made by Western Australian artists.

Round House
It isn’t round (it’s twelve-sided) and nobody lives here, but despite the naming discrepancy it’s a striking building. Built in 1831 as a prison by the first settlers, it’s the oldest public building in the state.

Stand nearby at 1.00pm each day for the firing of the cannon, which used to give vessels at sea an accurate time reading.

Fremantle Markets
Opened in 1897 and classified by the National Trust for their heritage architecture, the markets are a fabulous assault on the senses. Buskers busk, bread bakes, coffee brews and indigenous and independent art stalls do a roaring trade.

Fremantle fishing boat harbour
Still operational, still a good place for a wander, and still home to the best fish and chips in and around Perth.

Cottesloe Beach
When the Cottesloe Surf Life Saving Club was established here in 1909, surfing was born.
The area’s not huge by Australian standards (1.5km long), but it packs in terraced lawns, clean beaches and cafés and restaurants, all perched on the edge of the Indian Ocean. It’s a busy but favourite destination for locals and tourists alike and is a prime spot for swimming, snorkelling or (naturally) surfing. Beware the Fremantle Doctor later in the day as this breeze from the sea can be quite brisk.

Outdoor concerts are frequent and the annual Rottnest Channel Swim (one of the world’s largest open swimming events) starts here. Best of all, visit in March for the Sculpture by the Sea exhibition when the shore becomes an outdoor gallery.

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The time before Freo

The Europeans are last minute additions to this landscape. Before they arrived, the area that is now Fremantle belonged to the Whadjuk Nyoongar people for tens of thousands of years, a fact recognised by the city. Fremantle’s website confirms, “the Whadjuk people are the traditional owners of the greater Fremantle/Walyalup area.”

To learn more, follow the Manjaree Heritage Trail from Cantonment Hill (the place of the dingo spirit) to other sites important to the Nyoongar. Hop-on, hop-off guided tram tours are available.