Arnhem Land Northern Territory

Gove Peninsula, Arnhem Land, NT Photo credit: Tourism NT

Arnhem Land Northern Territory

The scale of Australia can be disorientating. Take that tiny outcrop at the very top of the Top End, for example. This is Arnhem Land Aboriginal Reserve. And it’s the size of Portugal.

17,000 people, mostly Yolngu, call this place home. You’ll find a number of them in Gunbalanya (formerly Oenpelli), a small community famed for its art gallery and Injalak Arts & Crafts Centre.

For day-trippers, it’s a natural stopping point and one of the first things to see in Arnhem Land. The local rock art sites around Injalak Hill are also well worth a visit. Go there as part of a tour and let the knowledgeable leaders immerse you in the rich world of the Dreamtime stories.

How to get to Arnhem Land

First, you need a permit to visit (see sidebar). Cross the East Alligator River from the Kakadu. Gunbayala is a 17km drive through stunning wetlands and mighty escarpments. Check the tides at Cahill’s Crossing on the East Alligator River so you don’t get stuck on the other side.

More things to see in Arnhem Land

The Stone Country Festival
Held in August, the festival is a celebration of local culture, arts and crafts. Local bands perform, and stalls offer traditional food and drink.

The community welcomes outsiders, and the festival is the only time of year you can visit without a permit. Non-powered camping is allowed (there’s no equipment hire, so take your own tent), but you can’t take alcohol in, and no unleaded fuel is allowed either. Opal or diesel cars only.

Cobourg Peninsula
From May to October, Garig Gunak Barlu National Park and its beautiful beaches are open for bird-watching, trekking and photography. Also in the park is Victoria Settlement, the ruins of a failed 19th Century British community. It’s only accessible by boat. You’ll need a permit for the park and a 4WD to reach it.

At Black Point Culture Centre (also in the park), you can discover the history of the surrounding area, including information on the failed European settlements.

Eastern Arnhem Land

Nhulunbuy (also known as Gove) is the biggest settlement in the region. You can fly into it from either Cairns or Darwin with Qantas. Flying from Darwin offers better flight times if you don’t want to stay the night.

Gove Peninsula unspoilt white sand beaches are one of Arnhem Land’s finest natural attractions. While offshore you’ll find great fishing, snorkelling and diving sites. You can charter fishing trips, and find traditional walking trails and 4WD trips locally.

Art
Explore Arnhem Land and you’ll quickly realise why the region is home to some of the country’s most respected jewellery, didgeridoos and bark paintings. If you’re looking to view or buy art we’d recommend:

Nambara Arts & Crafts Aboriginal Gallery
Buku Larrnggay Mulka Art Centre & Museum, just South East of Nhulunbuy

Gayngaru Wetlands is worth a visit if you’re an avid bird-watcher. Follow the lagoon path to two viewing platforms. You can also learn how plants are used as bush food and bush medicine.

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Northern Territory

By Permit Only...

Arnhem Land guards its Aboriginal culture, treasures and the environment very carefully. Unless you join an organised tour that has permission to enter the region, you’ll need a permit to enter.

You can apply for a permit on the Northern Land Council (NLC) website, but apply about 10 days in advance because it can take a while. This permit will allow you to travel overland, but if you’re visiting a national park within Arnhem Land or doing other activities, you may require further permits.

You can get a same day permit, in person, from the NLC in Jabiru, but they prefer a minimum of a day’s notice.

Because you can’t just wander in and start exploring Arnhem Land, there’s an attractive sense of mystery that surrounds the region. Tour operators know this all too well and set their rates accordingly, so shop around to get best value for money.